During bi-annual fashion weeks, the Industry's eyes lock on to street style for the latest in styling, trends, and colours. Which subcultures are bubbling through? Which era is having a spot in the limelight? Fifties? Nineties? From articles in newspapers to street style photographers and fashion bloggers, we can't get enough of street style but is it as innocent and glamourous as it seems?

I'd like to begin by stating that I think street style is fascinating. I interned as a street style reporter for fashion forecasting company Stylesight capturing the chic, quirky and absurd at festivals, in fashionable neighbourhoods and at LFW itself. I loved it, but after taking a back seat for a couple of seasons now, I've noticed a phenomena building that I was blind to; I'm going to call it as Peacocking, although I don't think that's quite the correct word, it doesn't hold the entire meaning of what I am referring to. Suzy Menkes refers to the same concept as a 'circus' in a recent article, which you can read here, although I feel that might be a little harsh. The following quote from said article certainly got me thinking:

"There is a genuine difference between the stylish and the showoffs — and that is the current dilemma. If fashion is for everyone, is it fashion?"

The Stylish and the Show Offs. Menkes describes what I've seen outside every show I've been to (I was a photographer's runner for a few seasons, so was outside all of the big shows. Frightfully glamourous, it was not. It was cold, very cold.). The juxtaposition of a clutch of sultry chic women, dressed in monochrome speaking in low voices on their phones against a gaggle of flamboyantly dressed men and women strutting past the groups of photographers willing to be stopped and asked for a photograph.

In my humble opinion, regardless of the event people should always dress for themselves. Something timeless, stylish, something well loved or dressing around an unusual piece that makes the wearer feel inspired. Those of us dressing for others, or with the intention of being 'papped' end up walking around all day looking and feeling uncomfortable and being gawped at by the general public. This is because it all appears fake, and outfits end up looking anything but effortless.

Fashion lovers are all to much being force fed images of eccentrically dress folk, who they are led to believe are the elite of the Industry. There seems to be an unwritten rule that once papped in something, it is impossible be seen in it again. A huge waste of money and resources. What's worse if that through street style many are trying to recreate these environmentally unfriendly looks, and spreading this waste farther, not to mention breeding an attitude of throwaway fashion.

The Industry is making mannequins of these men and women by 'gifting' or 'lending' them outrageous items with the hope that the item will be worn to a show and thus being photograph repeatedly. Nothing wrong with that, if everyone was aware of who at fashion week has become a walking advert. It is vital to remember that businesses pay a lot of money to get advertising space in Vogue, for instance, but getting high price point products into an issue or on the website via street style in fashion week is free and so carries priceless promotional value. I don't think it is fair to promote this glamourous lifestyle to the masses when a vast majority of it is fake. Bloggers and Vloggers have disclaimers about sponsorship and gifting on their websites and profiles but this is never made clear via street style shots. Sadly it impossible to keep track of with the speed of it all.

Being aware of the commercial value of street style is important for the general public and fashion community. However, I also want to point out that street style does have a time and place. There are hundreds of beautiful images shot at fashion week giving a great insight into global trends, as well as similarities and differences across the fashion capitals of the world. It's definitely an art form and as a result many love putting these kinds of fashion relevant images onto blogs, tumblrs and moodboards for inspiration. No doubt this will continue for the foreseeable future because so many of these images truly are inspiring. 

What do you think, is fashion week becoming a circus or is this type of dressing true to a modern fashion society? Are you on the stylish side of the street or hoping not to be rejected by the photographers with the fashionistas?

If I said 'Men's magazine' what do you think? Playboy? Nuts? Sleeze? Most might, but slowly the men's magazine market is being drawn in an altogether new direction: Class. Esquire, known for its laddish image hired a new editor last year who set about big changes, including smartening up the magazine without losing its humour and appeal. Many more are following suit (...braces, and bow tie).

Whilst on a recent magazine haul I came across SID, set up by stylist Sylvester Yiu with Yu-Jeng Wang heading up the Fashion department. Needless to say, I think the magazine is divine, for me there is nothing more glorious than thumbing through a magazine brimming with editorial content.

SID Online >
Preview Issue >

Here's a sneak of my favourite editorials The Outsiders, Ink, King of Coney Island & Dark Knight.

 Dark Knight

  Dark Knight

Dark Knight

Dark Knight

  The Outsiders 

   The Outsiders

The King of Coney Island

 The King of Coney Island

 

The King of Coney Island

 The King of Coney Island 

 Ink

Ink

Ink

After knowing about this since last year I am so happy to see press coverage on the London Collections: Men.  If you love menswear, or are in the least bit interested in men's fashion this is some very exciting news. After years of being in the shadows of Pitti Uomo, Paris, New York & Milan Mens Weeks, London's menswear is cracking its cocoon and flying solo with its own expose running 15th-17th June 2012.

The event backed by the British Fashion Council with help to promote British businesses and brands within its homeland, rather than relying on the last day of London Fashion Week. This means BIG things for British fashion and its a step in the right direction for menswear as a whole...there is so much to show, as men become more and more design conscious and trend aware.

From Oxford Street to Saville Row, so many brands are getting involved including: Margaret Howell, Aquascutum, Richard James, J.W.Anderson, E. Tautz, the MAN shows, NEWGEN and of course Topman Design, amongst others. The event itself is even sponsored by online luxury mens retailer Mr. Porter.

Gordon Richardson, Topman's spokesman hyped the event saying:

“No longer shoe horned into one condensed hectic day, the newly established London Menswear Collections, over 3 glorious days now has the space to breathe, flourish and generate the buzz that will put its talented rising men's fashion stars firmly on the international fashion map.”

I couldn't have put the words better myself. To read more about it from the BFC click here. if not I'll leave you with some of my favourite shots of the recent en's fashion weeks.

 gq.com @NYFW

 Dapper Lou of dapperlou.com @NYFW (NYMag)

 

gq.com @NYFW

 

gq.com @NYFW

 

gq.com @NYFW

 

 jak&jil @ NYFW

 

jak&jil @NYFW

 

jak&jil @NYFW

I have finished university now and would like to share some of my menswear editorial concepts and styling and also to announce that my portfolio and ways to contact me can be found at:

www.luciannesoley.co.uk

Below are samples of my editorial shoots with photographer Lulu McArdle, Make-up & Grooming by Sarah Elizabeth Abbot.

All images are copyright Lucianne Soley 2011. Please do not use them unless you have received permission to do so.

I know this is an AW11 collection and we are coming up to September, however, I have just come across the beautiful design works of Tom Lipop


Mr Lipop AW11 full show from VAUXHALL FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.


And here is what he has to say:

''Inspired by the long historical lineage of British fashion, Tom Lipop is an innovative and demiurgic designer looking to utilize his natural creativity and passion for contemporary design through the generation of his own Avant Guarde collections. His business partner Eser Aydemir, with an Msc in International Business Management, advocates Lipop London to further their distinctive style and ingenuity whilst foreseeing the business side of the company using marketing and management skills.

Lipop has created a very stylized handwriting using beautiful illustration, technical cutting, experimenting with new fabrics, and garment construction. Alongside this creativity and his prominent design work Lipop of London aspire to great designers such as the Heritage of Massimo Osti, The Individualism of Henrik Vibskov and the Technical Aesthetic of the more recent Aitor Throup; three designers who push the boundaries of fashion craft with successful, conceptual and aesthetically progressive garments.

Utilizing and constantly adapting skills Lipop has honed and developed over the last few years of experience within the textile trade, has lead us to feel confident in our contribution to the fashion industry; Toms completion of his challenging BA Hons degree in Fashion and Textiles (menswear) and his successful application to Sky One’s ‘Project Catwalk’ highlighting not only his high-level of design competence but also an ability and drive to push and excel himself within the industry. Indeed, in this latter experience for Sky One, Tom was recurrently placed under intense pressure to create innovative and original designs within short time periods, which not only successfully matched strict briefs, but also concurrently demonstrated his aptitude and dedication to the production of forward thinking and contemporary garments.
Indeed, Toms involvement in ‘Project Catwalk’ allowed him to fulfill design and pattern cutting roles at Griffin Laundry, House of Holland, Halfpenny London and Nathan Jenden, where he has been able to implement his skills and learn some new techniques.

Freelance fashion design was an integral aspect of Tom’s life allowing him to develop and evolve innovative structures not just for Lipop’s collection but to be able to create and put other peoples ideas to paper and of course onto the body, a skill they have actively delivered. Both have been challenging but greatly rewarding; a concept that is successful and fulfilling as well as driving Lipop London’s ambition and motivating them to succeed.
Lipop London Debuted their collection ‘Battle of the Sardines’ at Brighton Fashion Week 2009 and with the Upcoming arrival of Lipop’s New Collection showing as part of London Fashion Weeks Off Schedule Show ‘A la Mode’ and various installations around the UK. Lipop London are enthused for the future.''

There is a perfect balance of feminity and masculinity of the collection, I adore the blocked hues, berets, gorgeous hoods and cropped 3/4 length bottoms. Everything screams European sophistication to me. I'm in love.

...selection of random images, where I cant remember which websites I've lifted them from. Enjoy! (None of these images are my own and are from other blogs, magazines and image galleries I have come across...please message me if one of these is yours so I can put your name to it or remove it as you wish)